Framing A Bathroom Wall
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Mods if this is in the wrong forum please move.
I am in the middle of renovating our master bathroom and started removing the old drywall and noticed that we have some 1x10 horizontal blocking in the wall. It is flush with the wall or slightly recessed in spots. It does not appear to be structural since it does not go the full width of the stud. I want to remove them so I can insulate this wall. I will add back actual blocking if I need to.
Has anyone seen this before? I am not sure I understand why it is there.
My second question about the same wall and the horizontal 2x6 in the wall (picture with the broom in it) The 2x6 is perpendicular to the stud in the wall and nailed to it. The stud it is nailed to does not go all the way to the floor, is nailed to the adjacent stud and is not a continuous stud (it is 2 pieces).
I want to remove the 2x6 and the 2 piece stud and just sister in a new stud. Is there any issue with me doing this?
TIA
Zman
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We put similar blocking in at 33" or so AFF in shower areas for the future installation of assist bars. We also install such blocking for the installation of pedestal or hanging sinks. Not sure about your application, but it could be for such.
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Same general thought as @chandler48 ; looks backing for something.
Towel bar?
When I have drywall off I put backing next to windows near the top so
there'll be something to hold the curtain rods.
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sometimes bracing in the wall like that is needed on shear walls with certain sheathing grades. I would just leave it. Put your full r13 batt fiberglass in the bay without the block sections and then peel away some fiberglass to put behind the blocking. Wood has almost no insulating value. If you compress the fiberglass to fit behind the wood it will decrease the R value probably making it less than just uncompressed fiberglass in a smaller are. You can also put foam board behind the blocking that has higher R value per inch of depth than fiberglass.
And as ^ mentioned, if you ever want to add a hand rail or anything, you'll have something to screw into. Not fun to remove a pedestal sink held in only by toggle bolts in drywall and have to open the wall to add blocking like that which takes all of 5 minutes from scrap wood while it was framed.
for that pieced-together 2x4, the house isn't going to fall down if you remove and replace it without temp bracing, especially with 2 studs right there but you can also most likely just leave it if there's 2 full studs right there.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
this is waist height and is not on a wall with water, electrical...etc. There will be nothing but wall. Vanity, sink and Toilet are on the other wall. I can remove it to install some insulation? I will add one on top as I am going to hang hooks mounted on wood.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
sometimes bracing in the wall like that is needed on shear walls with certain sheathing grades. I would just leave it. Put your full r13 batt fiberglass in the bay without the block sections and then peel away some fiberglass to put behind the blocking. Wood has almost no insulating value. If you compress the fiberglass to fit behind the wood it will decrease the R value probably making it less than just uncompressed fiberglass in a smaller are. You can also put foam board behind the blocking that has higher R value per inch of depth than fiberglass.
And as ^ mentioned, if you ever want to add a hand rail or anything, you'll have something to screw into. Not fun to remove a pedestal sink held in only by toggle bolts in drywall and have to open the wall to add blocking like that which takes all of 5 minutes from scrap wood while it was framed.
for that pieced-together 2x4, the house isn't going to fall down if you remove and replace it without temp bracing, especially with 2 studs right there but you can also most likely just leave it if there's 2 full studs right there.
If I go this route here is what I an thinking. I can install a small section behind the blocking removing some of the insulation so as to not have it compressed then install normally above and below. I am going to use faced insulation. Do I need to tape the seams?
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If I go this route here is what I an thinking. I can install a small section behind the blocking removing some of the insulation so as to not have it compressed then install normally above and below. I am going to use faced insulation. Do I need to tape the seams?
Where are you? Insulation requirements vary greatly by area.
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Probably laid out that way for wainscoting.
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2x6 can be part of a corner brace or just a nailer for shower enclosure? Can you check what's behind or above the 2x6. If nothing, you can remove or keep it per the plan. It may be easier to use xps boards for some areas.
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I am going to use faced insulation. Do I need to tape the seams
I finished about 100 basements in NJ with inspections and I can only recall 1 time an inspector made me tape the seams after overlapping them on the front 1.5" face of the 2x4 wall studs.
Usually all we would do was put faced batts in (paper facing inside) and then take the paper flap of two neighboring batts and fold a small 4" part of the paper flap over the 1.5" front face of a stud and staple it (stapled 2 batt flaps with 1 staple) and then just do that only 3 or 4 times per stud so that the only part of the paper flap that was actually on the front of the 1.5" wall stud was just the 3-4 4" places it was stapled, all the rest of the flap was on the SIDE of the joist unstapled and still 'stuck' to the rest of the paper and un-flapped. Never once didn't pass inspection except that 1 inspector.
But 1 time an inspector said the point of the paper flap was vapor barrier (not just for hanging it) and so this should have it vapor sealed the whole way. This was a town that wanted all metal framing for some stupid reason, so no stapling insulation batts, in metal was possible, so we had to use aluminum duct tape (very sticky) and took quite a while to tape the whole thing up so you couldn't see any wall studs when done.
Makes sense yes to provide full vapor barrier but even latex paint can be considered a vapor barrier. Vapor barriers can get tricky.
We never put foam boards and these were usually newer homes with proper black gunk sealing applied all over the exterior of the basement walls before it was backfilled. Older homes might not have that black sealing hence more problems with moisture entering. Sometimes we'd get one that had some mold showing on the basement walls before it was finished and all we'd do was one thick coat of drylok. No plastic sheeting or foam board or anything like that. no problems that I know of and always passed inspection.
so in simple, maybe you want to fold the whole paper flap over the stud so you can't see any studs after it's insulated but then after latex paint (and probably glossy in a bathroom) you may end up with too much vapor barrier. You don't need tape if you choose to hide the entire wall stud with the paper flap, just fold it over and tack in place and then the drywall will keep the flap tight to the 1.5" face of the studs.
There's a million different methods and might depend on your exterior sheathing and home wrap. My guess is there's a certain perfect level of vapor barrier but all materials (and which side the house faces etc) need to be in the equation and then maybe use some high tech vapor reader gun to see if more or less vapor barrier would be needed to get a perfect level. In other words, it probably doesn't matter that much lol.
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on a asde note, that 2x6 blocking looks amateur and not professional. Usually a pro would toenail shoot (or hand nail) blocking that fits right in the 14.5" space, not like how the pics show that someone first nailed/screwed small nailers to the sides of 2x4s and then front-screwed 1x6s to that instead of toenailing it in one quicker process. AND they are only 1x6s and not 2x6s.
do you see a lot of old nail holes in it? Maybe once upon a time someone already reno'd the bathroom and put those 1x6s as a horizontal chair moulding at the top of beadboard or something like that.
Like I said, if you just leave it, it might be for bracing, but you will loose a tiny bit of insulation in that area.
Source: https://www.diychatroom.com/threads/question-about-the-framing-in-my-bathroom-wall.615338/
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